Camber FAQ

Are the prices listed for both left and right sides?

YES, all of the prices we have listed are for both left AND right sides. We do not believe in pricing kits per corner as it is deceiving. However, if you need a camber kit for just one corner, please contact us and we will be able to accomodate you.

What is camber?

Camber is the inward or outward tilt of the tire/wheel assembly. This angle is measured from a true vertical line, i.e. perpendicular to the ground. A tire/wheel assembly that is tilted outward at the top is considered to have Positive camber. While a tire/wheel assembly tilted inward at the top, displays Negative camber. For a zero setting, the tire/wheel assembly is in the exact vertical position or perpendicular to the ground.

What is an alignment?

An alignment returns the tires to the factory specifications that allows you the best in tire wear and handling.

Can’t you just rotate my tires?

The problem isn’t with the tires. It is a physical change in the dynamics of the vehicle itself. Tire wear, poor handling are symptoms of these changes.

How does camber affect my tires?

Camber outside or to the extreme limits of the specification will cause tire wear on the inside or outside of the tires. Unequal camber can cause your car to pull to one side.

Why does my car pull to the right?

There are several reasons why the car will pull. Unequal camber, unequal caster, road crown, unequal tire pressure or radial tire pull are all the most common reasons for a vehicle to pull to one side.

What effect does ride height have on alignments?

Ride height is the second most neglected part of wheel alignment. Camber is directly affected by the ride height. A perfect example is the lowered Hondas that are so popular now. A drop of just 1-inch on the double wishbone suspension moves camber negative .84 degree.

Why are the inside of my tires going bald?

Negative camber or too much toe-out can cause inside tire wear. Add a low air pressure to the tires and you get an extreme tire wear very quickly.

If I replace my struts, do I need an alignment?

Definitely, replacement of any parts in the steering/suspension system requires an alignment to return the car to optimum handling.

Why do I need a 4-wheel alignment?

Basically, to assure all the wheels are headed in the same direction. When factories moved to the FWD design the rear wheels were left to “hang out” for the ride. It didn’t take very long for rear tires to develop diagonal wear. This wear is caused by a rear wheel alignment problem. To combat this issue the factory added rear wheel specifications. Just like gapping spark plugs, resurfacing rotors, or changing oil the factory has a reason for setting a specification to a component.

How far can I lower my car before I need to adjust camber?

Any amount of ride height change will cause camber and toe to change. It might not always be visible but having your camber out of adjustment will cause the tire to run on the inside edge only. The lower you go the more negative camber you will get and the faster the tire will wear. Toe will also be affected. Having your toe out of specifications will wear tires and make the car handle unfavorably.

There is more than one kit listed. Which one do I need?

Manufacturers have designed up to six different kits for some vehicles. The correct kit is determined by how much your camber is away from the factory recommended specification and on some kits, what style of bushings you want (see next question).

Example: If you lower a 1992 Accord 1.25”, the top of your tires will tilt inward (negative camber) somewhere between -.875° and –1.5° depending on vehicle make, model, year, type of kit and initial readings. To adjust a negative (-) reading back towards 0 you will need to move it positive (+). Ingalls has kit numbers 3570 and 3571 that will correct up to +1° and the 3572 or 3573 start at +1-1/4° and go up to +3°.

Without having your exact camber readings it would only be a guess at which kit is the correct one.

Which one should I use, polyurethane or rubber?

Polyurethane bushings are designed for a performance like ride. Polyurethane may squeak if not properly lubricated. You should use a lubricant that will not wash away. Once the lubricant is washed out or contaminated from road grime the lubricant will no longer be effective. This can cause premature wear on the bushings. You will need to re-lubricate. Rubber bushings are designed for the "street" use only vehicle. They provide a more factory like ride. These bushings do not need to be lubricated, but will not provide you with that "tight" suspension feel.

What should I lubricate the polyurethane with?

The best information we have acquired about this is from the people that prefer to use polyurethane. Here is a list:
  • Slick 50 grease
  • Slick 50 spray lube
  • Anti-Seeze lube
  • Moly graph based wheel bearing grease
The key is to use a lube that will not wash out easily. A normal automotive type lube/grease will work or use a marine type lube. Check with your local marine/boat dealer for this. You can also use silicone spray lubricant (available in auto parts stores), it will provide an easy but temporary relief from squeaks.

Will LARGER diameter wheels change my camber?

Wheel diameter does not change camber. Changing the diameter of the wheel doesn't change any suspension geometry and will not affect camber.

Below are some pictures illustrating the installation of some types of camber kits.


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